The Cowboy Boot: An American Icon

April 2, 2026 | Chicago, IL

John Wayne, Dolly Parton, Barbie - the cowboy boot is classic Americana. I’ve sent many international visitors home with a pair of boots, as a quintessential American souvenir. However, did you know the history of the cowboy boot significantly predates the American Wild West? Cowboy boots gained popularity in the US in the mid-1800s, but were popular in Mexico dating back to the 1600s. In fact, it's kind of inaccurate to say cowboy boots became popular in Mexico, as they were actually just born there out of necessity. Originally, they were utilitarian, needed for survival in the thorny, brush-filled landscapes of Central Mexico. They became a status symbol and point of national pride, following the Mexican Revolution (early 1800s). The boots made their way to what is now the US on the feet of Mexican Vaqueros (cowboys) who were cattle ranching across what is now Texas, California, and New Mexico. When US settlers moved into the Southwest, they adopted the vaquero trade, including the tools (lasso, saddle, and chaps) and footwear.

The modern "American" cowboy boot was born around 1870–1880 in Coffeyville, Kansas (this exact location is a disputed fact, but given that I drive through Coffeyville every time I visit my family, I would like to believe it's true). For the next half century, the boot remained essential gear for working ranchers and farmers. It was the Golden Age of Hollywood that glamorized cowboy culture and style, by romanticizing the Wild West. In the 1930s-1940s, “Singing Cowboys” like Gene Autry and Roy Rogers wore highly decorative boots with colorful stitching and eagle inlays. This shifted the public's perception from boots for work, to boots for fashion. By the 1950s, the mainstream crossover was complete, when children’s “cowboy sets" (boots, hats, and holsters) became one of the most popular toys in America. The look moved counter-culture in the 60s and 70s, with Rock and Roll icons like Bob Dylan and Jimmi Hendrix sporting the style. In the 1980 film “Urban Cowboy”, John Travolta brought the look back into the zeitgeist, with major boot makers like Tony Lama seeing profits increase by nearly 90% in a single year (1981). People who had never seen a cow were buying exotic skins like ostrich and python to wear to "honky-tonk" bars in major cities like New York and Chicago. We saw this exact trend repeat itself with the 2023 “Barbie” movie creating a 400% surge in searches for “pink cowboy boots” following the very first trailer. I happened to be working with a cowboy boot brand when this most recent surge happened and it was a great time to be in the industry. Brands were challenged to identify new leathers that could achieve the vibrant pink and factories that could turn around new styles, with shortened development time, at higher volumes, faster than ever, without losing quality of craftsmanship.

I was lucky enough to travel to León, Mexico to observe the ~200 step process for making these high quality fashion and work boots. It was an incredible experience because not only did I get to see how boots are made (read more here), but I also got to soak in the rich history of boot making in this part of the world. My trip coincided with Dia de Muertos (Day of the Dead), a day dedicated to remembering loved ones who have passed on. Because shoemaking is a family trade passed down through generations, the holiday is a time to honor the master shoemakers and generations of craftsmanship. Many of the factories we visited had ofrendas showcasing the specific tools used by their ancestors—old clicking knives, hammers, or vintage lasts, etc. along with the traditional sugar skulls and marigolds. 

On multiple occasions, I’ve been asked “why aren’t cowboy boots made in the US anymore”? The short answer is, some are, but most are made in Mexico because that’s where they’ve always been made. The long answer is, cowboy boots were made in the US for only a short time.  During World War II, most US factories redirected their efforts to wartime needs. Mexican tanners and shoemakers stepped in to fill the global demand for boots, establishing the supply chains to the US that remain dominant today.

Today, Cowboy boots are made all over the world. Bespoke boots and luxury brands are thriving in Texas, budget styles are often produced in Southeast Asia (probably Africa soon), and Mexico remains the world’s leading exporter of high-quality cowboy boots. If you are looking for an authentic, artisanal cowboy boot, you really can’t beat Made in Mexico.